Installation Guide

  • Installation Guide

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Installation Guide

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Installation of your product is very important to ensure a proffessional look and long life of your product. We recommend hiring proffeessional layers but if you are up for some DIY here are some tips:

  • Step 1: Planning

    Start with a good level Measure and draw a diagram of the area you want to pave, noting any existing structures such as buildings, fences and other paved areas. Your local Decor dealer can help you determine the best stones and the proper amount of supplies you need.

  • Step 2: Preparing

    Stake out an area approximately 30cm larger than the area to be paved. Plan to slope the paving away from the buildings in the direction of normal drainage. Make sure that you have 90º corners at your starting point. You can do this by using the 3-4-5 triangle method. From the corner stake measure 90cm across the base and 120cm up the side. The diagonal line joining these two points should be 150cm. If it is not, adjust the 120cm side until the diagonal is exactly 150cm.

  • Step 3: Excavating

    Where there is only pedestrian traffic, a base of 10cm – 15cm of processed gravel is recommended. To achieve this, excavate 17cm – 22cm to allow for base material, sand and pavers. Where there will be vehicular traffic or around pools a base of 15cm – 20cm of processed gravel is recommended. To achieve this, excavate 22cm – 28cm deep. Make sure to excavate 30cm beyond the area you plan to pave.

  • Step 4: Installing the base

    Compact the surface of the excavated soil with a plate compactor (you can rent these). In small areas a hand stamper may be sufficient. Fill the area with 2cm minus crushed stone or aggregate approximately 13cm thick. Compact this with the plate compactor. Wetting the gravel lightly with water will help with the compacting. When you can walk on the gravel without causing an indentation you can add the next layer of gravel and compact it. Continue to add gravel in layers until the base is approximately 8cm from the desired level of the finished grade. Make sure to slope the surface for water drainage. The slope should be 0.5cm per foot. Install a level line across the area using a line level. On the stake that is at the end you want to slope towards, move the line down 0.5cm for every foot of pavement. For example, if your pavement will be 250cm long, move the string down 2.5cm. Measure the distance from the line to the base. The distance should be equal all along the line.

  • Step 5: Installing the restraints

    Bullnose coping or Edge restraints should always be used to prevent the pavers from rolling or spreading. You can use PVC, aluminum, concrete or pressure-treated wood. Precast concrete curbs are recommended because they are easy to install, are very durable and will accent your paving stone. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to make sure that all corners are exactly 90º.

  • Step 6: Screening the bedding sand

    Before you can lay the pavers, a bed of sand must be prepared. Use 2.5cm outside diameter galvanized electrical conduit, strips of wood or other suitable material, such as screed rails, and place them 200cm’ apart down the area to be paved. Measure the distance from the string lines and the screed rails at several points. If necessary, adjust the height of the rails by putting sand under them or trimming the base underneath if too high. Hand pack sand around the rails to hold them in place. Spread 1” of sand between the rails until it is slightly higher than the rails. Use a 5cm x 10cm board to drag across the top to smooth and level the surface. Fill in the low spots and repeat. Remove the rails and fill in the indentations with sand, and trowel smooth as you are laying the pavers. Do not step on, compact or wet the sand after you have finished screening

  • Step 7: Layering patterns

    Starting in a 90º corner, lay the pavers in the pattern you have chosen. Work outwards keeping all joint lines straight. Use string lines pulled along joint lines and parallel to the edge restraints or, chalk lines snapped on the surface of the sand bed to keep the joint lines straight. Leave a 0.5cm space between pavers. Periodically check the alignment of the rows by stringing a line along the front edge of the leading row. Each paver should touch the string. If adjustment is needed use a screwdriver and hammer to move it into place. Work off the pavers you have already installed but stay away from the edge so you do not disturb the sand bed. Install remaining edge restraints. Do not try to turn the pavers with curves in your laying pattern. Cut pavers to fit along the edge restraints.

  • Step 8: Cutting pavers

    Measure and mark the pavers to be cut with a marking crayon. A diamond blade wet saw, paver splitter or a hammer and chisel can be used to cut pavers. Always wear safety glasses. If possible, keep edge stones to one half paver.

  • Step 9: Compacting & Setting

    Sweep the surface to remove any debris. Spread plaster sand over the surface, sweeping it into the joints leaving surplus sand on the pavers. Stamp the pavers down using the plate compactor. The excess sand on the pavers will cushion the surface and the vibration will assist in filling the joints. Spread more masonry sand if required. Make two or three passes at 90º to each other and re-sweep the surface.

  • Step 10: Finishing

    Sweep the remaining excess dry sand over the surface filling the joints. You will have to repeat this over the next few days as the sand settles and the rain compacts it.

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